Gear lever, STAINLESS STEEL (travel), TUNING (CZ) - JAWA 50 05, 20-23

Full specifications

Gear lever, STAINLESS STEEL (travel), TUNING (CZ) - JAWA 50 05, 20-23

Can be used for:

• JAWA 50 type 05
• JAWA 50 type 20
• JAWA 50 type 21
• JAWA 50 type 23 (Mustang)

Reinforced TUNING gear lever for Jawa 50 pionýr, type 05, 20, 21 sport and 23 mustang in the TRAVEL version.

The gear lever is made of 5mm stainless steel, which ensures excellent strength. So there will be no cracking, which is so common with original levers that it is more of a feature.

Assembly is easy and can be done by even a layman. No need for any modifications. Just remove the old one, slide the rod onto the automatic transmission and tighten the screw with the nut on the engine. It fits under the sheet metal on Jawa 20 and 21.

Replica gear levers sometimes have a problem with hitting the cover when fully moving up or, conversely, they are too far out and the cover cannot be put in there. This does not happen with ours. Moreover, it does not even hit the induction coil, which has the original handle.

The gear lever is equipped with two needle bearings that slide on a stainless steel pin, mounted on an M8 stainless steel screw. Thanks to this combination, the pin is more resistant to bending. (The original pin is made of mild steel grade 11). In addition, the bearings ensure precise movement without any play, which the original lever suffers from a lot. It is very often worn out, the gearshift is long due to the play and it also rubs your engine block.

This version differs from the CROSS version in several points:

• in the surface treatment: this version has a polished surface to a mirror shine, so it looks like chrome
• in the lever body: there are no holes in the body, as is the case with the cross version, we are trying to make it look like the original at first glance
• in the pin: there is a welded pin on which a rubber sleeve is slipped, it is not possible to mount a folding end here - this can only be mounted on the cross version, where the aluminum end is tightened with an M8 screw

The rod with a joint has the advantage that you can adjust the position of the end by tightening/loosening the rod in/out of the joint body. However, we would like to point out that some races banned the joint joint last year. Fortunately, we have a solution for you. All types of levers have one more hole below with a run-in for a rod without a joint.

The shifter has the same movement path as the original. With both jointed and jointless rods.

If you don't like any of the pull rods from our production, you can make one at home from a 5mm round bar in a vice.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Is any maintenance required?

For touring use, there is almost no need, at most once a year, to lubricate the bearings and the inside of the joint. For motocross purposes, we recommend lubricating more often, for example after riding in the mud and then washing with a spray bottle.

In which direction is the 1st gear shifted?

You shift first by moving your foot up, second and third are down. If you are used to the opposite gear shifting from a big motorcycle, take a look at our Jawa 550-555 gear levers, which also fit the Jawa 23, 20 and 21 with a seat plate with rails

The gearshift pin is at a different height than the original after installation

The threaded rod is adjustable, the pin height can be adjusted. Just loosen the M5 nut on the rod, unscrew/screw as needed and tighten the nut. The thread is 25mm long.

The gear lever moves with slight resistance after tightening

This may be caused by a bent washer that ensures the limitation of the lever's movement to the side. It is more bent from the factory and therefore more springy, but after a while of driving it will settle down and will not put so much pressure on the moving part. Alternatively, you can lightly lubricate the washer, e.g. with WDčk

What bearing is in the gear lever?

There are two needle bearings with a pressed HK1212 bushing

What kind of joint is that on the gear lever?

It is an M5 angle joint

Why is there no joint on the other side as well?

The joint is mainly there to allow you to adjust the height of the pin. The second one would unnecessarily increase the overall price and will not help much with the clearance, because the automatic is free by itself.