Gear lever, STAINLESS STEEL (cross), TUNING (CZ) - JAWA 50 05, 20-23

Full specifications

Gear lever, STAINLESS STEEL (cross), TUNING (CZ) - JAWA 50 05, 20-23

Can be used for:

• JAWA 50 type 05
• JAWA 50 type 20
• JAWA 50 type 21
• JAWA 50 type 23 (Mustang)

Reinforced TUNING gear lever for Jawa 50 pionýr, type 05, 20, 21 sport and 23 mustang in CROSS version.

The gear lever is made of 5mm stainless steel, which ensures excellent strength. So there will be no cracking, which is so common with original levers that it is more of a feature.

Assembly is easy and can be done by even a layman. No need for any modifications. Just remove the old one, slide the rod onto the automatic gear lever and tighten the screw with the nut on the engine. It fits under the sheet metal on Jawa 20 and 21.

Some replicas have a problem that when shifting upwards it hits the cover, this does not happen with ours. Tested on a pionýr, which has all the original sheets from the factory.

Another disadvantage that this shifter solves is minimizing play. The original ones are very often worn out and have a lot of play, which prolongs your shifting movement and also wears out the clutch cover. Our lever is equipped with needle bearings that slide on a stainless steel pin mounted on a screw with minimal play. The stainless steel pin, together with the screw, is also more resistant to bending, unlike the original pin. (made of grade 11 steel)

This version differs from the travel version in several ways:

• in the surface treatment - the surface of the lever is ballotinated (blasting with glass granules) which gives a beautiful uniform matte appearance
• in the shift pin - this version has a screwed aluminum pin with grooves. In the future, we are also planning to produce folding ends (we want to make it to 24H fichtlmazec 2024), which can be easily replaced with an ALU pin. This replacement will not be possible for the touring versions, because they have the rubber sleeve pin welded
• in the lever body - which has perforations for weight reduction and a sporty look

A rod with a joint has the advantage that you can adjust the position of the end by tightening/loosening the rod in/out of the joint body. However, we would like to point out that some races banned the joint last year. Fortunately, we have a solution for you. All types of levers have one more hole below with a run-in for a rod without a joint.

The shifter has the same movement path as the original. With both a jointed and a jointless rod.

If none of the rods from our production suit you, you can make one at home from 5mm logs in a vice.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Is any maintenance required?

For touring use, there is almost no need, at most once a year, to lubricate the bearings and the inside of the joint. For motocross purposes, we recommend lubricating more often, for example after riding in the mud and then washing with a spray bottle.

In which direction is the 1st gear shifted?

You shift first by moving your foot up, second and third are down. If you are used to the opposite gear shifting from a big motorcycle, take a look at our Jawa 550-555 gear levers, which also fit the Jawa 23, 20 and 21 with a seat plate with rails

The gearshift pin is at a different height than the original after installation

The threaded rod is adjustable, the pin height can be adjusted. Just loosen the M5 nut on the rod, unscrew/screw as needed and tighten the nut. The thread is 25mm long.

The gear lever moves with slight resistance after tightening

This may be caused by a bent washer that ensures the limitation of the lever's movement to the side. It is more bent from the factory and therefore more springy, but after a while of driving it will settle down and will not put so much pressure on the moving part. Alternatively, you can lightly lubricate the washer, e.g. with WDčk

What bearing is in the gear lever?

There are two needle bearings with a pressed HK1212 bushing

What kind of joint is that on the gear lever?

It is an M5 angle joint

Why is there no joint on the other side as well?

The joint is mainly there to allow you to adjust the height of the pin. The second one would unnecessarily increase the overall price and will not help much with the clearance, because the automatic is free by itself.