Front fork bushings, TUNING (CZ) - JAWA 50

Full specifications

Front fork bushings, TUNING (CZ) - JAWA 50

Can be used for:

• JAWA 50 type 550, 550
• JAWA 50 type 05, 20, 21, 23 (Mustang)

   PROS

+ Better durability than the original nylon version
+ Bottom liner with shoulder will not slide in
+ Longer contact surfaces

  CONS

slightly higher price than the original

Improved front fork bushings for Jawa 50. Can be used on all types of pioneers - specifically 550, 555, 05, 20, 21 and 23.

Compared to the original version, these bushings are longer, harder and have much greater durability.

The material is durable plastic (polyoxymethylene). It has good tensile and bending properties, is rigid, flexible and resistant to abrasion.

2 upper bushings without a shoulder and 2 lower ones with a shoulder go into the front fork tubes.

There is a shoulder on the lower boot that serves as a stop and prevents it from sliding inward. This is a big problem with the original version and shortens the interval for replacement. The shoulder does not interfere with anything and hides nicely in the sleeve.

The upper bushing is made so that there is sufficient overlap after pressing into the tube and the chance of its displacement is minimized. But if you want to be 100% sure, we recommend putting a screw above the upper sleeve as a stop. You can either do it from the side of the wheel as an inconspicuous version or put the grease nipple from the front, like we did. Of course, you have to watch the length of the screw so that it acts as a stop and at the same time does not cut into the inner slider.

To minimize displacement, the sliding sleeves are made very tight and therefore it is harder to press them into the front fork tube - in addition, they are longer and harder. They can be hammered into the original original tubes with a hammer. It is a bit of a pain, but you can install them even at home. Use a wooden/rubber/plastic pad to hammer them in so that you do not deform it at the beginning.

A more ideal solution is to use a hydraulic press. Don't forget to put a pad on the sleeve and the other side of the tube again so that you do not deform the thread.

After pressing, all the sleeves need to be reamed to the size of the inner slider, because it is not possible to make them in a way that does not deform the inside during pressing and at the same time keeps them in place. We recommend using an adjustable reamer 21-23mm (you can get it for under 400 CZK) and reaming gradually. A precision reamer or drill will never make the right clearance.

We guarantee that the sleeves will be pressed into the original tube properly. However, with replicas you may encounter a problem - some tubes have a smaller inner diameter. In this case, the sleeves will also fit, but you will not be able to do without a press. On the other hand, you will have the advantage that the upper sleeve will not move anywhere.